Where to you see the plus market heading?

Liis: The plus market can only keep improving and expanding.  The industry used to revolve around business suits but now there is a better variety of clothing available.  I hope the junior market continues to thrive because I really like a lot of that clothing.  It would be great if the industry could support several plus magazines.  It was very disappointing when Mode folded so I really hope that Grace thrives. 

How prevalent is airbrushing in plus modeling (are all those plus models really cellulite free?)

Liis: Air brushing is common in a lot of photos.  That is not to say it is extreme. I cannot comment on what happens within the graphic departments of individual publications or magazines.  Often times a photographer that has mastered the art of great lighting will make you look like a million dollars.  Great lighting and great make-up on healthy skin published on high quality paper always makes for a more polished photo.     

How common is cosmetic surgery in plus modeling?

Liis: I personally do not know any models who have had cosmetic surgery.

Are plus models more in demand here in the US or abroad?

Liis: The market has shifted in the last few years and there are more agencies representing plus models throughout the world.  However, I do believe there is still more work in the US.  Models here also get booked for jobs around the world so it is often not necessary to seek representation in Europe. (I do not have a European agency and have worked with many European clients). Although many European clients shoot in South Africa, just as many or more shoot in Miami as the city caters to the industry.

What advice do you have for aspiring/new models?

Liis: Here are five ideas to think about:

1)       If you haven’t started to model yet, go to as many local shows as possible to watch how the models carry themselves.  How do they turn?  How do they hold their heads?  What are they doing with their arms?  If you are just starting out enjoy the process!  If you are in a local fashion show and make a mistake, don’t let it get you down.  Don’t even let it register on your face!    Always remember that it will be a really funny story years from now (trust me I know).

2)       Please do not think you have to spend a lot of money on classes and photos to get placed with an agency!  You might end up spending money on pictures that are highly editorial thinking you know your own look and then have an agency sign you wanting to promote you as the sweet girl next door!  You will then have to re-test.  If an agency wants you, it will help you develop your book and your look and send you to the proper photographers.

3)       I often hear new models complain that they are not working.  When I ask them how many times they have tested , they often tell me "once" and go on to complain that they are broke and that their bookers aren’t working for them.  I then like to use the following analogy.  I tell them to imagine a store with a few products but mainly consisting of empty shelves.  You, as the owner, hire a manager to sell your products.  You eventually get mad and frustrated with your manager because sales are not good.  How is this person supposed to entice people into the store when there is nothing for customers to look at?  It is the same with modeling.  How can your booker promote you if there is nothing in your book?  Modeling is like opening your own business.  You need to make an investment.  It may take time to build your book, to develop your cards.  There are many other models out there with full books competing against you.  Be patient as it probably will not happen overnight!  If finances are tight, save your money and set goals for yourself. 

4)       Watch experienced models on set if you ever get the chance.  This is the best way to learn.  Pose in front of the mirror.  Pose with your best friend.  This may sound silly, but if you are uncomfortable doing this, how will you be with a room full of people staring at you on set?  Look through magazines and note poses.  How do the models hold their heads, their hands?  What do their lips look like?  What expressions do their eyes hold?  To this day, I rip pictures out of magazines for ideas for future tests.

5)       If you are on set and you are doing a laughing shot, really laugh!  You don’t have to do it very loud  (more like a quiet chuckle) but trust me, if you are exhaling like you would if you were really laughing, the picture will look more natural.  Go in front of a mirror to try it.  Do a fake laugh and then do a real laugh and notice the difference.  Your eyes will look unnatural if you fake the laugh.

How do you feel about the plus industry today?  Changes?  Strides and goals?  Do you find any inequalities within the industry (due to age/size/ethnicity/etc)?

Liis: I am so happy with the evolution of plus size modeling.  The industry can only get better.  More companies are creating more diverse lines of clothes to suit all tastes.  Advertising budgets are getting larger.  Ten years ago you would never see plus clothing ads in magazines such as Glamour, In Style, Marie Claire and Vogue etc.  Big, stylish runway shows like Lane Bryant’s were not in existence.  Not only has the market become more noticeable, the press deems it newsworthy and devotes print space and airtime to it.  Entertainment Tonight, Access Hollywood and other big entertainment shows feature plus industry events.  They would not do this if the general public wasn’t interested.  I hope the industry continues to embrace models of various ages, ethnicities and sizes because it can only make everything more interesting.          

What are the differences, pros/cons about the Canadian market vs. the American market?

Liis: The Canadian market is great but it is small.  The majority of plus work takes place in Toronto with some taking place in Montreal as well.  I could not live in Toronto as I do now and make a full-time living working only with Canadian clients.  We only have a few department stores nationwide which is generally a large percentage of plus modeling in comparison to the US  which has many department stores either nationwide or throughout certain states.  Because the market is smaller, and there are therefore a lot less models, you risk saturating the market with your look.  Therefore, it would be great to start out in a Canadian market and continue in it, but don’t expect to be in it all the time. Smaller markets are good as they allow you the opportunity to develop your portfolio, your comp card and your experience level.  Canada has always enabled me to get some great tearsheets.  A lot of Canadian magazines tend to use  regular and plus models in their editorials.  The US market obviously serves a much bigger population therefore there is a lot more work, bigger budgets and longer shoots but also a lot more agencies representing a lot more models.

What are your thoughts on how separated "regular" model/advertising differs from plus?  Do you ever see it merging so that women of all shapes and sizes are shown in major magazines together?

Liis: I think it has taken a long time to get to where we are today and we have a long way to go but society is definitely changing its perceptions and therefore magazines will reflect this.  Vogue recently tested the waters with its "Shape Issue" and Glamour published something similar.  While not every page had a woman of a different size or height, the point is that this would never have happened five years ago or even two years ago for that matter.  I don’t see magazines fully merging shapes any time soon.  It may take baby steps but at least they are finally being taken!  I now do editorials and there is no mention of me being a plus model.  Five years ago I would have had a banner over my head in pictures announcing "plus size fashions" or something of the sort while the regular model on the opposite page would have no tagline.  This makes me very happy.  The contents page in magazines used to list "plus size fashions" but most magazines have even stopped doing this too.  A fashion spread is a fashion spread!  I can’t wait for the day that a plus model makes it to the cover of Vogue.  I will personally send her a note of congratulations!

Liis can be booked through Dorothy at Plus Beauty (dorothy@plusbeautymodelandtalent.com)