fabulous face:
shaping, defining and enhancing eyes

Taylor Bartoe
PM Beauty & Fashion Columnist

 

 

 

 

Beauty Archives:
Fabulous Face: Foundation
Summer Skin Care and Make-up

 

Eyes: All about shaping, defining and enhancing eyes.

home remedy for puffy eyes
If you have been partying all night or just need a little eye lift, try this Eye Tonic home remedy before you start your make up application.

Ingredients:

  • 1 Small fresh potato
  • 1 Spritzer of water (preferably Evian or bottled water)
  • 1 Comfy cozy chillin' spot
  • 1 Clean cloth
  • 1 Bowl for fresh clean water and aromatherapy oil. (optional)

First prepare your bowl with your favorite aromatherapy oil (AVEDA has the best!). Let your cloth soak while you rest. Cut two slices from a fresh clean raw potato- I'd say about one inch thick. Next use your Evian Spritz (or bottled water in a spay bottle) around your eye area. If you wear contact lenses, be sure to remove them. Kick it in your comfy cozy spot. Place the potato wedges over your eyelids. Leave them in place for 10 minutes (NO CHEATING) while you rest and then remove. Wipe the eye area clean with your aromatherapy cool cloth, making sure not to RUB too hard (doing so can cause the connective tissue to loosen causing sagging… of course over time. Now you should feel bright eyed and ready to face the world!

Shaping eyes
What works and what doesn't? These are for the common problem eyes: small, deep set, mature, down-turned eyelids, and bulging or puffy eyes.

Small eyes make-up steps

  1. Sweep medium toned shadow on the upper lid and up to the crease.
  2. Apply the contour shade at the outer third of the crease.
  3. Add the highlighter just under the arch of your eyebrow.
  4. Upper eyeliner - concentrate liner at the outer third of your upper lid. Blend up and out to extend the line, so contour shadow and liner are blended together.
  5. Lower liner - concentrate liner at outer third. Blend down and out to extend line.
  6. Use mascara on your top lashes, concentrating on the outer lashes. Use no mascara or a smaller amount for the bottom lashes.

What doesn't work for smaller eyes?
Avoid dark shadow shades all over the lid, the dark colors are for minimizing. Lining the inner rim of your eyes, tends to make the eye look smaller.

Deep set make-up steps

  1. Use medium toned shadow over the entire lid.
  2. Place contour color just above the crease and blend upward.
  3. Add highlighter under the brow bone.
  4. Upper eyeliner- using a very light hand, keep color right at the lash line, and blend well.
  5. Lower eyeliner- use only to enhance the lash line and blend well.
  6. Apply mascara to upper lashes and lower lashes, combing well between coats if you apply more than one.

What doesn't work for deep-set eyes?
Don't put contour shade right in the crease, the eye will only recess further. Avoid heavy eyeliner, it echoes the darkness of the crease and counteracts your efforts to lighten the look of the eye.

Mature eyes make-up steps

  1. Sweep your medium shade over the entire lid.
  2. Skip the contour shade, it's very difficult to use on less than supple skin.
  3. Don't use a highlighter shade under the brow unless your skin is taut.
  4. Upper eyeliner - apply color along the lash line, going a bit thicker toward the eye's outer third. Blend well.
  5. Lower eyeliner - nothing at all is usually best.
  6. Mascara is not always necessary. If you use mascara, apply only one very light coat.

What doesn't work for mature eyes?
Don't try to re-sculpt hollows where skin is no longer taut. Keep color away from areas that are very wrinkled; color calls attention to any flaws and can settle into creases. It's especially important to avoid frosty or shimmer eye shadow.

Turned down eyes make-up steps

  1. I recommend you start with the eyeliner to visually lift the outer corners of your eyes. Begin the line at the inner corner of lash line just past the pupil, and then sweep up and out. Draw a line on the lower lashes that parallels the top lid sweeping it up and out.
  2. Apply medium-toned shadow over the whole lid.
  3. Place a contour shade in the crease following your eyeliner as your guide. Be careful that the contour and liner do not meet at the outer corner.
  4. Apply your highlighter under the brow's arch.
  5. Use eyelash curler first then apply mascara to outer upper lashes only.

What doesn't work for down-turned eyes?
Mascara on the bottom lashes, having it on top opens the eye.

Buldging or puffy eyes make-up steps

  1. Use a highlighter shade in the inner corners of the eyes.
  2. Use a dark matte shadow in the crease of the eye (wherever it is bulging or puffy).
  3. Extend eyeliner along the lashes going from the inner corner to the outer corner. If you prefer use a dark eye pencil in the inner lid rim.
  4. Emphasize upper lashes with mascara especially the outer lashes. Use very little or no mascara on lower lashes.

What doesn't work for buldging or puffy eyes?
Don't use the pencil under lower lashes. It will accentuate the bulging of the eye.

If you have a specific eye question, please email me at FacesbyTaylor@aol.com and I will answer the question in the Beauty section Of the PlusModels Forum.

Next: Finding your perfect eye shadow color


Taylor Bartoe is a professional plus-size model, spokesmodel for Kiyonna Klothing and make-up artist in the Los Angeles area. To read more about her, please visit the "about pm" page. To contact Taylor, send mail to FacesbyTaylor@aol.com