TFP - when a photographer takes photos of a model for money or in exchange for prints.

Good TFP - when you get something you can use.

Testing is fundamental for every model starting out and continues throughout every models' career. The trick is learning how to get the most you can out of every test you do. Lets start with the basics.

How to find a test photographer

If you utilize the services of an agency they are paid a commission to guide you in the right direction. If you don't use the services of an agency, you still have a few options. Two things you do not want to do are look in the Yellow Pages for a portrait photographer or go to a studio that specializes in glamour photography. You need fashion shots, not portraits. The photographic techniques used in portraiture are not the same as those used for fashion and the lighting for both portrait and glamour photography differs from fashion photography.

Posting on the PlusModels board is a good way to find a fashion photographer. Some photographers don't like to, want to, or know how to shoot plus. When you find a photographer through this site you know that s/he has experience photographing plus models or is at least willing to try. Also, use the photographer directory. These are photographers who have specifically expressed an interest in photographing plus size models.

Check your local area for art schools that offer photography classes. Schools often need models to pose for fashion photography classes and, if you're lucky, you may get paid for it! If they don't need models, let the department head know that you are an aspiring model looking for photographers and that you will TFP (test for prints) or split costs.

You can also call local agencies and ask them to refer you to test photographers in the local area that shoot plus. You always want to be sure that they know you are a plus size model because all photographers don't necessarily shoot plus. Some photographers will not work with unrepresented models.

Once you find a photographer, you want to set a time to meet with him/her prior to the test. If it's someone you don't know, take the precaution of bringing someone with you or meet the photographer in public; don't take chances with your safety. Always have an idea of what you're looking for. I have a three ring binder I've kept for several years now and enclosed in the plastic sleeves are magazine tears that I like. I refer back to this book whenever I need to test for styling ideas, photographic examples or inspiration. I suggest you start your own and don't limit yourself to plus size magazines. Look in all magazines: American, European, men's and women's. Look at ads as well as editorial spreads. When you meet with a potential test photographer take along two or three examples of what you are looking for. Ask the photographer if s/he thinks s/he can do something along those lines and, if not, what direction does s/he want to go in?

When you call a photographer to plan a meeting, ask to see his book if s/he has one and, if s/he doesn't, ask him/her to bring a few samples of his work so you can get an idea of what s/he can do. You should also bring your book or samples of your work so s/he can see what you have and what you photograph like. Ask who keeps the film. If it's a TFP, split cost or inexpensive test, chances are the photographer will keep the film. This is standard. If it's a professional test they may want to keep the film, but that's negotiable; always try to keep the film. If a photographer is keeping the film, find out before you test how much 9-1/2 x12 prints will be.

Testing with a new photographer is done for mutual benefit, just because you meet with a photographer does not mean you are obligated to test with him/her and vise versa. If the work appears to be of poor quality or the lighting is really bad don't do it. If the work is acceptable go ahead and test. If it's for prints, split cost or less than $25.00 per roll. You can use the practice and you may get something useable.

If you work with an established photographer who is testing, prices work three ways: price per roll plus hair and makeup, flat price for photography plus hair and makeup, or flat test price including hair and makeup. Whatever pricing a photographer uses the test should not exceed $400, which includes hair and makeup. There are a few exceptional photographers that charge $475, but they have amazing books and are a rarity. If you are just starting out, a paid professional test should run $300 to $400. Never pay more than $475 for a test.

If you're spending money on a test, spend money on a hair and makeup artist. $50-$100 is the going rate for an experienced makeup artist. Do not spend more than $100 for a makeup artist; if that's the asking price they're just taking your money. If it's a TFP, split cost or $25 a roll or less, try beauty schools. Call to see if they offer cosmetology classes. If you find someone at a school, don't pay. You have no guarantee that they know how to do makeup for photography. Offer prints at cost so they can begin to develop their book. You can also try cosmetic counters in department stores. This is not standard practice but I realize that a lot of readers live in areas where they don't have access to the professionals found in metropolitan areas. If you find someone in a department store, chances are you will have to pay something. Do not go above $50; start the bargaining at $30.

If you are working with a professional photographer, they should know makeup artists. The makeup artist should supply all of the makeup, although I do suggest you bring your own foundation, powder and mascara. For ethnic models ALWAYS bring your own foundation to every test and every booking.

So you found a photographer, discussed what both of you are looking for and decided to test. Now what?

What to wear: Stay away from props; no sunglasses, roses or flower bouquets. Avoid black, white, stripes, polka dots, velvet and crazy prints. For black and white photography look for textured wool, terrycloth, ribbed tops, or knits like sweaters. They come across well.

If you're just starting out go basic and clean with clothing. For styles, think the Gap, Banana Republic, and Limited. Make sure you have the right sizes. Make sure everything is pressed and clean. You may want to try cargo pants or jeans with a v-neck for one look. I would also suggest doing something that shows off your legs; this is good for hosiery clients. Finally, for a beginner, you need a clean head shot so wear simple necklines.

Final steps: Take the time to put your best face forward. If you need to get your roots done, get a haircut or get waxed, do it. Don't waste your time or the photographers by not being physically prepared. Look at yourself and make sure your eyebrows are tweezed, your skin is clear, any extra body hair is removed and your nails are done.

You found a photographer, a hair and makeup artist, shopped for clothing and you have taken care of surface beauty needs. Get a good night's rest and lot's of luck!