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what it takes to model for
bbw magazine
An interview with
Betty Johnson, Fashion Editor
As fashion
editor, one of Betty's duties is to scout and hire models
for shoots. Below, she shares her criteria for selecting
models who appear in the publication.
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When selecting a model for a shoot,
what do you look for in general?
Betty: When selecting a model, I look first for her eyes.
Can she look into a camera, and bring the reader into the magazine?
Does her confidence and inner beauty show in her facial expressions?
What size range do you commonly use?
Betty: Most plus sample sizes are 16-18, so we find models
to fit the samples. In editorial work, however, where I have some
leeway, I like to use a wider range of models, beginning at size
14 and including any woman I can find fashions to fit! I think beauty
comes in all sizes, and our readers tire of seeing all one size.
Height range?
Betty: This depends. If I'm looking for a fashion model,
someone who will be in the large spreads, then I need to use a model
who is at least 5'9". The reason has to do with bodice length. It's
impossible to get petite fashion samples, so a petite model doesn't
work well in a dress designed for a woman who has a longer body.
However, I often use shorter models for editorial pieces or work
that is only a head shot. I'm petite myself, so I know that those
models are often overlooked.
Age range?
Betty: Again, this is dependent on what I'm shooting. I try
to stay under 30 for most fashion, though a 33 year old model may
have exactly the look I'm going for! If we're shooting career, I
want the model to be old enough to be believable as someone in upper
management. If we're shooting a piece on your inner child, I want
someone who looks a bit younger. I look more to fit the personality
to the piece we're working on.
Do you seek a particular body type or
shape?
Betty: It's important to be proportionate, though we can
do some "movie magic" from time to time in certain areas. It is
always better to have the perfectly proportionate figure so you
fit great in the clothes. Curvy is the best look...I want to show
that plus women fill out their clothes, and breathe life into them.
Are "flaws" like stretch marks and cellulite
something you take into account?
Betty: Stretch marks are badges of honor in my book! Stretch
marks don't show as badly as you think, and can be touched up with
makeup. My personal taboo is nothing that is natural--I don't understand
models who have tattoos. When I have the choice between a model
with and without a tattoo, I go for the one without every time.
If I'm going for a certain look, I don't want to have to cover up
the art you preferred in order to show product. Modeling is a business,
and your body and ability to portray different looks are your products.
Providing a blank canvas that can then be decorated by the client
is much easier to sell than a particular piece of artwork. You wouldn't
put a shot from ten years ago in your book and expect the client
to show you only in that dress from ten years ago--so why date yourself
with a tattoo?
What agencies do you work with to locate
models?
Betty: I try them all. But it is difficult in some markets
to find plus models. In Las Vegas and Reno, for instance, most agencies
discourage plus models because the casino industry utilizes mostly
very thin women. I utilize the Internet, modeling sites, and our
own model search to find great talent as well as agencies. It is
not uncommon for us to show a Ford girl, a girl from a small local
agency, and several unagented girls within one issue.
Where,
location-wise, do you primarily shoot?
Betty: We have shot across the country from New York to Los
Angeles. Currently, we are working with some great photographers
in Phoenix and Reno, and we are shooting there, Las Vegas and Sacramento.
How do you select a cover model for
an issue?
Betty: Oh, now this is difficult. A cover model has to be
able to invite the reader in using only her eyes and facial expression.
She sells the entire issue from the magazine stand. How do we select
who will be on the cover? It's a hard process. Sometimes, we shoot
a model who was in a fashion spread, especially if we are centering
the issue on those fashions, such as winter wear. Sometimes, we
want to highlight a celebrity, so we use someone the readers will
identify with immediately. The cover is usually the one of the last
decisions we make, and we often decide during a fashion shoot after
watching the girls work, and seeing a special spark in one of them.
A cover model has to be a pro--someone who can lean forward and
grab the camera. She has to be able to create her own inner magic
that comes across on film. It's a very special talent.
Aside from great looks and camera play,
what attributes do you most look for?
Betty: A great attitude. Very simply put, you can be absolutely
stunning, but if you have a poor attitude, I won't call you back.
A model with a poor attitude who can't seem to take control of the
situation and provide the looks we're asking for can drag a shoot
out, and cause us to lose shots. An attitude problem with one girl
is infectuous and can begin to wear on the other models at the shoot.
A fashion layout can be a very long, hard
shoot, especially if we are also trying to fit some editorial shots
in around the fashion. Modeling is very difficult work, and dealing
with a model with an attitude problem makes it that much more trying
on the other models as well as the other professionals present (photographer,
makeup artist, stylist). We try to have a great time at our shoots,
even though we are working very hard, but 90 percent of the atmosphere
is provided by the model herself. I've been very lucky and most
of the models I've worked with have been exceptional.
What
tips would you offer both aspiring and professional models?
Betty: Be a pro. Come to the shoot with a modeling bag containing
whatever you may need, including bras in different colors and styles,
panties in different colors, a thong, several types of shoes, in
case we are not shooting shoes and need something for you to wear,
any hair piece that you might normally use. Don't tell the makeup
artist that you don't like the colors he or she is using, I'm paying
them to know what colors to put you in. Understand that the clothing
you wear is based on the needs of the magazine, not on if it is
the apparel you look best in. Be yourself in front of the camera,
stiffness shows. Relax, and let your personality show in the final
product. Practice different looks in the mirror, the slightest change
in hip or eyebrow positioning can create an entirely different look.
Be honest in your sizing. If I've ordered size 16 for you and you're
really a 20, I can't use you. My job is to show the product in its
best light.
BBW Magazine can be found at Barnes
and Noble stores, B. Dalton, and Chapters. Subscription information
is available on the BBW Magazine site at http://www.bbwmagazine.com/. |